We'd like to share with you our signature needlework, Hardanger embroidery. Now that you have taken the first step and decided to learn Hardanger embroidery, let us reassure you that it is not as difficult as it appears. For your first project, choose a contrasting thread and fabric since this will make it easier to see your mistakes or any split threads. Avoid dark colors of fabric while you are learning for they are somewhat harder to work with than the lighter shades.

Before you begin your first piece, read the instructions carefully. Notice that each Hardanger fabric thread consists of two strands which must never be split. Since knots are never used in Hardanger embroidery, begin each piece by leaving a three-inch tail of thread which will be drawn under the completed satin stitch blocks on the wrong side of the piece.

Origin: Hardanger embroidery is a delicate form of open needlework which originated in the Hardanger region of Norway hundreds of years ago. It gradually spread to other parts of Europe and then to the United States with the Scandinavian immigrants.

Fabric: Hardanger embroidery is a form of counted-thread embroidery which must be worked on an even-weave fabric. Traditionally, the work was done on white linen with white thread; however, the fabric most commonly used today is an even-weave cotton with 22 threads per inch. This fabric, known appropriately as Hardanger fabric, is imported mostly from Europe, and comes in a variety of colors. Many other even-weave fabrics have recently become available and are also suitable for Hardanger embroidery.

Thread: The thread used in Hardanger embroidery, pearl cotton, is available in many shades. Two sizes of thread are needed to complete the embroidery. The heavier work, including satin stitches, solid motifs and the buttonhole edge, is embroidered with pearl cotton, #5. The finer work, completed after the cutting and removal of some threads of the fabric, uses a single thread of size #8 pearl cotton.

Other Supplies: The only supplies needed, in addition to even-weave fabric and pearl cotton thread, are tapestry needles and a good quality embroidery scissors. The scissors must have fine, sharp points to make the cutwork easy to accomplish and neat in appearance. Tapestry needles are important because they have blunt points and will not split the threads of the fabric as easily as sharp needles; size 22 and 24 needles work well for the two sizes of thread used.

• Satin Stitch
  
  (1) Satin Stitch: The satin stitch, which is worked with #5 thread, is the basic foundation of Hardanger embroidery. It can form many different motifs, but its basic function is in the satin stitch block. Each block consists of five stitches and each of those stitches covers four threads of fabric. Beginning with the first block (1a), notice that the needle will usually be working at an angle, but the stitch must always run straight with the threads of the fabric. On the fifth stitch of the first block, pivot in the corner hole (1b) and bring the needle up four threads away. Then return to the corner hole (1c) and once again complete the satin stitches. The second type of corner (1d) shows the needle coming up in the same hole before beginning block 3. Repeat from 1a until the desired number of satin stitch blocks has been completed. Remember to check the work for any split threads or missed holes, that the stitches run straight with the threads of the fabric and that two stitches meet in every corner.
• Cutting
  
  (2) Cutting: Before doing any cutwork, check the satin stitches again to be certain there are no mistakes. Corresponding blocks on opposite sides of the pattern should be worked around the same four threads. Four threads of fabric will be cut across the ends of the satin stitches as shown (2a); never cut parallel to a satin stitch. Always keeping the satin stitches to the right of the scissors (if you are right handed), insert the tip of the scissors into the end hole and bring it out at the corner hole. Check to be sure you have picked up four threads of fabric. Carefully snip as close to the satin stitch as possible without cutting the #5 thread. Continue around the pattern until all appropriate areas have been cut (2a). Then draw out all loose threads (2b). The blocks on opposite sides of a pattern must correspond since the four threads cut on one side must be the same four threads cut on the opposite side in order to be drawn out. With some motifs (2c), only the four corner threads will be cut, leaving some threads to be wrapped.
• Weaving
  
  (3) Weaving: After completing the cutting, there will be a network of threads left, all in groups of four. These will be wrapped or woven into bars with pearl cotton #8. Secure the end of the thread into the satin stitches on the back of the fabric and bring the needle to the right side of the fabric through the middle of the four threads. Bring the needle around the threads on one side and then back to the middle (3a). Repeat on the opposite side (3b). Continue weaving in a figure-eight pattern until the entire bar is filled. It is extremely important that the weaving be very tight and even; therefore, pull each stitch firmly before continuing. When one bar is complete, cross over to the next bar by bringing the needle from the far side of the completed bar up into the center of the next bar (3c). This will leave a small crossover thread on the back of the work.
• Webs
  
  (4) Webs: These lacy fillers go quickly and add much to any piece of Hardanger embroidery. Weave 3 1/2 bars. To insert a web, bring the needle up through the center of the adjacent woven bar (4a). Bring needle under the first side of the web and then up through the center of the next woven bar (4b). Proceed to the third bar and repeat 4b. Pass needle under the third side of web and pull needle through to create the twist. Complete the web by bringing the needle over the first side of the web and up through the center of the unfinished bar (4c). Finish by weaving the last half bar.
• Click here for a printer-friendly .pdf file of all four techniques (1.8MB) (will open in new window)

These instruction have been taken from the Beginner's Charted Hardanger Embroidery book. Copyright 1980 by Susan L. Meier and Rosalyn K. Watnemo.

This page is for personal use only and may not be reproduced for sale.