As you may already know, Hardanger embroidery is Nordic Needle's signature needlework. We gave you the basics of Hardanger embroidery in Hardanger 101 (if you haven't seen Hardanger 101 please click there and learn the basics before reading this page). We thought you would all be up for a challenge so here's your next lesson, Hardanger 201. Don't worry, this is still basic Hardanger, but it will give you some new stitches for more options. Enjoy!

• Spokes
  
  Spokes: This lacy filler adds a decorative touch to the openwork. After the weaving is complete, bring the #8 thread up in a corner hole and insert the needle into the center hole (5a). As the thread is brought back to the corner hole, wrap it around the suspended thread two times (5b), keeping the suspended thread tight at all times. Return the needle to the back of the fabric through the same corner hole. Proceed to the next corner by sliding underneath the satin stitches; repeat for the remaining three corners.
• Picots
  
  Picots: These very traditional additions are worked at the same time as the weaving is being accomplished. Weave to the center of the bar and insert the needle part way into the bar (6a). Bring the thread from the bar, under the back of the needle and around the front (6b). Pull the needle through, and work with the picot until it lies firmly on the outside of the bar. Wrap that side one time, bringing the needle around the outside of the bar and into the center. Repeat for the other side (6c) and complete the weaving of the bar (6d).
• Lacy wrapping
  
  
  Lacy wrapping: This extra-fine wrapping gives the finished piece an extra lacy effect. Bring the needle to the right side of the fabric through the middle of the four threads to be wrapped. With the #8 thread, wrap around two strands of the bar into the center of the motif (7a). Move to the next bar and wrap two strands of the bar to the center point and insert a web (7b). Finish wrapping to the end and then wrap the next two strands into the center. Work one side of the center eyelet which consists of three stitches (7c). Bring the needle out in the center of the next bar and wrap two strands of the bar to the center as before to insert the next web (7d). Work the remainder of the bar. Continue in this manner until the entire motif has been completed (7e). The third and fourth sides of the eyelet will be inserted just prior to wrapping the last bar. Secure the thread into the satin stitch block on the wrong side of the fabric.
• Cable stitch
  
  
  
  Cable Stitch: (also known as faggot stitch) The cable stitch is usually worked in #8 thread. Begin by securing the thread on the back and bring it up in the hole designated on the pattern. Count up two holes and over two holes from where the thread emerges and insert the needle. Bring the needle out as shown (10a). Again, count up two holes and over two holes; insert the needle and bring it out where the previous stitch ended (10b). Continue in this manner, always counting from where the thread emerges and always bringing the needle up in the hole where the previous stitch ended (10c, 10d). To turn a corner, pivot the needle in the corner hole and bring it up as shown (10e). Return to the corner hole and proceed as before (10f, 10g, 10h).
  A single cable stitch results in two rows of stitches. Some patterns call for a double cable stitch, or four rows of stitches. This is accomplished by going around the pattern a second time, starting two holes above the last starting point (10i). Notice that the middle row becomes double, and a row is added on top (10j, 10k).
• Click here for a printer-friendly .pdf file of all four techniques (1.2MB) (will open in new window)

These instruction have been taken from the Beginner's Charted Hardanger Embroidery book. Copyright 1980 by Susan L. Meier and Rosalyn K. Watnemo.

This page is for personal use only and may not be reproduced for sale. We would like to give credit to Jessica Watnemo for the original rosemaling (1998).