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These stitching tips came to us from our email newsletter subscribers in response to one of our customers, Elanie, when she wrote, “I like cross stitch very much but it takes forever to finish a project. Can you give me a few tips on how to work more effectively to save some time? I currently have projects on hand that should take maybe 150 years to complete.” If you would like to add your suggestions, please send them to me at: rozw@nordicneedle.com Thank you! We will post ten new ones in each of my upcoming email newsletters until we run out of stitching tips!

101. Whenever you do counted cross stitch, baste your linen every 10 squares in the same order as the chart. The time taken to do this will be saved, you will always know where you are at, even if you have to leave that work for some time.

102. Hi Sue, Roz, etal.....I don't know of any stitcher who isn't frugal (a nice word for stingy) with their thread. We all use our thread right down to the last 1/4 inch and many save their scraps of loose thread for later. I got to wondering what it really costs for what we're using. It turns out that monetarily, we really needn't be so frugal. The tag on DMC thread says that there are 8.7 yards of 6 strands of thread in the skein. If my calculations are correct that breaks down to 37/100ths of a cent per inch. So we get about 3 yards of single strand thread for a penny!! I now do not hesitate to toss away shorter, less useable lengths of thread, but I still try to get as many stitches as I can out of my thread.

In your newsletter, someone mentioned about stitching name of the stitcher and the year of the work done on each project.

Since I usually work on Hardanger, I'm not sure where I can stitch my name on.Especially the doilies with many open works.Does anyone have suggestion? Can you ask in your newsletter?

I bought a beautiful little diary and every time I start new project, I write down the starting date and the description of the work (for example, Hardanger doily from the book so and so page 20.)

I also write down the fabric and the threads that I use (count of the fabric, color, color of the threads and the number....Pearl cotton No. 5, and 8 etc...)

If the project is time consuming one, sometime I write down date and mention what part of the project that I am working on.( May 5th, I finally finished with buttonhole stitch. Now I start with eyelets.)

Then when I finally finish the project, I write down the date and measurement of the project and little comment.

Sounds too much?? Maybe, but when I want to know when I started one of these UFOs, it is really easy to find out. It actually helps me to pick up one of UFOs to work on when I realize this one has been neglected for more than 6 months!!

104. My tip is a very easy one. I've been told to let the ends of threads you cut off blow out the window when you are riding in a car because the birds can use them to help build their nests. I always do this!! It's not really littering because it's being recycled!!

105. The whole purpose of stitching is to NEVER finish! I can't die until all of my projects are done. . . and I'm at 640 years and holding at the moment. It's always so nice to see new patterns from Nancy's Needle. I'm one of her twice-a-year campers, and we all enjoy watching her creative process and its beautiful results. Thanks for the great news letter -- although it's always so tempting to push into the 800's!

I travel on planes frequently (2-3 times a month) for work and I have developed a routine. I always take something to stitch on with me. I gives me a sense of humanity - away from the laptop and work that is always there calling my name. I often stitch while waiting for planes to take off - sometimes we are stuck on the runway for a long time. Hotel rooms typically have terrible lighting and I usually don't get to my hotel until the evening, tired, etc.

My favorite type of stitchery includes Hardanger stitches on linen but that requires a good light and a steady environment. Therefore, those are projects that are next to my stitching chair at home with my good light and supplies. When traveling, I usually carry little projects on Aida cloth - I find it easier to buy little kits that have everything included. Its easier to place that needle in the right spot with Aida as opposed to Linen. Then I slip the whole project into a gallon sized zip lock baggie so that when I get to my seat I can pop the whole thing into the back of the seat in front of me, along with a book to read. It’s also easy to stash into my laptop briefcase.

I bought some rounded scissors that I use for airplane travel. Prior to going through security, I take them out of the zip lock baggie with the project and put them in one of my pockets so that when I go through security I can put the scissors in the trays and point out to the security folks that I have them. They always say thanks - that's a smart thing to do. Before I did that, they would always pause looking at my bags and then want to search looking for the scissors. So this way, I avoid being stopped.

I do find that as I stitch, the attendants usually want to see what I am working on. It also (as you stitchers know) gives me time to think. I can stitch and think about the various things I need to do for work, or ponder a challenge/problem/opportunity that is going on at work and think about ways to address them. I try to tell people (non-stitchers) that it really frees up my mind and relaxes/refreshes me better than just sitting there.

107. I have really enjoyed reading all of the tips and ideas and finally thought I should add mine to the list...

Many others have talked about using highlighters to mark their charts while stitching and I tried this until I had to take out a whole section because I had mixed up the colors of thread (some shades are just too close in these kits!) and needed to "unmark" sections of my chart. Instead of using a different color of highlighter, I purchased highlighters that have two ends. One end is the highlighter marker and the opposite end is a white/clear "eraser". If I accidentally mark the wrong section as complete (or have a thread mix up) then I just use the white marker end and un-highlight the pattern. You have to be careful not to press too hard or the pattern could tear because the paper gets wet but it dries almost immediately and removes the highlighter color so you can start that section over again. I have found these markers in the local grocery store school supply aisle and the office supply stores and they are about the same price as a regular highlighter.

I also keep my work in individual purses or tote bags - I have found several vintage box purses in antique shops and resale stores and my smaller projects stay in those, while larger ones reside in colorful tote bags with pencil boxes of mechanical pencils, the double ended highlighter, mini scissors, a package of needles in the correct sizes, a mini accordion ruler, a pair of magnifying glasses (the cheap ones from the grocery store or pharmacy) and a note pad of paper for making a note of time worked on the project and/or things to correct, buy or replenish.

I have a box purse in my car, in my husbands truck (to his dismay-although it looks like a mini toolbox!) and I carry one around with me when I go somewhere with the children. I try to rotate the projects I work on by the week, if they are large, and carry them around with me to all my appointments but if I am in a hurry I know I always have a small project to work on in the car and I don't have to stress about getting anything ready to go with me. Of course, Hubby often wonders about me when I show up at the car with 2 purses and totes for the twins - he has asked me several times if I am moving out or in with who ever we are visiting, in jest of course, at least I hope.

Finally, I read something the other day that helped to change my whole thought process about the charts and kits I own. I am a chart/kit collector and I don't have the need to complete absolutely everything - I enjoy flipping through the charts and kits just dreaming of the possibility of what I could accomplish with infinite time (that's what it would take!) and that encourages me to stitch some more on the kits I already have going!

I have learned a lot from reading all the hints from your reading audience. I have a tip that helps me as an "in hand" needleworker, as I am one who does not like to use hoops, scroll rods, etc.

I am right handed and hold the fabric in my left hand. In larger pieces, the fabric gets "scrunched" pretty badly as you move to the right of the graph. To avoid scrunching where I have stitched and possibly causing a distortion in my completed work, I start my stitching in the first 10-20 stitches at the upper right side of the graph. I work down and to the left. With band samplers, I start at the halfway mark or even 3/4s across and work down and to the left. That way, my completed stitching never gets crumpled and stays fresher. It takes some careful planning to place the work correctly initially, but that's always been the case.

I stitched the Lavender and Lace "Angel of Love" in this manner and am halfway finished with "Angel of Spring". The first angel took a whole year to finish. As I move to the left, I fold the right hand side of the fabric over the completed stitching and pin it in place. This helps keep the completed work clean.

Thanks for letting all of us share your reader's tips. They are fantastic and I have found several that I now depend on.

I want to share an idea with your readers. It started with my Mother when I was just a toddler. During the Christmas Holidays she had a green cloth she kept on the dinning room table. In the center she always placed a floral decoration, but all the rest of the cloth was available to every guest who came to our home, to write their name and year in pencil. After the Holidays, my Mom would spend evenings embroidering over the pencil in white embroidery floss. When I turned 6, my Mom put a needle and thread in my hand and showed me how to do a back stitch and she allowed me to work on the tablecloth after I had perfected the stitch. The cloth is now about 65 years old and I display it with pride during the Holidays. Each of the names brings back such wonderful memories of old friends and neighbors and our large family.

Now I have a cloth that I started for my own home. It is white and I keep a red and green pen available for my guests. They chose the color they like to write their name and date. After the New Year I embroider over their names in the same color they used. I have kept the center free for table decorations and embroidered Christmas Poinsettias around the area. It is very striking!

In the past few years my grandchildren have begun to marry. I have extended this tablecloth idea to their wedding receptions. We call it "The Anniversary Tablecloth". I embroider a design in the center with the names of the bride and groom and the date of their wedding. We put the tablecloth out on a table at the reception with a few pens and encourage the guests to sign the cloth. This has become a substitute for a Guest Book. Many guests write their good wishes and hints for a loving life together. The cloth is then embroidered over the next year and presented to the happy couple on their first wedding anniversary. They can then display their cloth each year when their anniversary comes around.

This isn't a "how-to" tip but is something that has brought me much joy. Several years ago I had a dear friend who passed away and I always deliberately put in one "wrong" stitch in her memory, usually the stitch on the bottom right or left. Also, after she passed on, her husband gave me a piece of her stitched cross stitch and it is one of my prized possessions. I have been thinking about my close friends who are stitchers and last Christmas I gave each of them a small piece of my work (a stitched English cottage designed by Rose Salwell of Needlpoise). I asked each of them to give me a small piece of their work in return. So far, several have done so and the pieces are real treasures. The others keep teasing me with "your piece is almost ready, almost ready." The pieces I have received are nothing like what I stitch but each of them is so characteristic of the friend who stitched it and I am so thrilled to receive these treasures.

112. I used to find that I marked charts with a highlighter to keep my place but have changed that idea to putting the chart I am working on in a sheet protector, or if that is too small I use clear packing tape to cover the chart. Then I mark it off as I go with a dry erase marker. Believe it or not the dry erase marker will come off with a damp paper towel and I can use the chart again and again.

113. I note that several of you say you highlight your pattern as you finish an area - I do it somewhat differently - I "color" my pattern with markers (gel pens) before I stitch. It gives me an accurate feel for the pattern and I find I make fewer errors. Also, I begin stitching in the middle of a pattern and then fold the pattern in fourths, finishing each fourth before going on - seems to make it go faster when you break your project down.

Along with sharing them (UFO’s) with friends, we've started putting them in boxes that go in the back of closets. Naturally these are projects low on the list of things that are going to get finished. Label the box with your husband's name (Bill) and "next wife" (Bill's next wife!) Then when I'm gone and she goes to cleaning out she'll get a nice surprise and gift from me, stuff I didn't want to finish and now she'll have to.

115. One of the things that save me a lot of time is keeping each project I’m working on in a separate bag, including a good supply of needles and a scissors just for that project. I have several tote bags that I’ve collected over the years and each is stocked with a pack of needles and scissors and then I just have to alternate the pieces I’m working on as I finish them and start a new one. I used to spend too much time hunting for the right size needle or my pair of scissors but not anymore!

I'm one of the stitchers who suggested using a highlighter to keep place on a chart. The tip , # 70 from Pat, reminded me that I also make mistakes when stitching and sometimes have already 'highlighted' that area on the chart. What I do is circle the mis-stitched area with a pencil - then when I've fixed it, just erase the circle!

117. Hi Roz – I can’t tell you how much I enjoy your newsletters. I know they are lots of work – but KEEP THEM COMING.

My hint is for tatters – or anyone else using less than full spools of thread of the same color.

When I have completed a project and still have a partial shuttle of thread (too much to just wind off and toss), I put the shuttle and the remainder of the ball of thread into a plastic bag. Even the small sandwich bags work great. Then, when I begin another project, there is no wondering which ball of thread was used when the shuttle was wound. There is nothing worse than being half way through a project and discovering that you have used two colors of white! And let’s face it, size 70, size 80 and size 100 thread can easily be mistaken for one another if you’re in a hurry!

118. I can't remember if this has been mentioned before, but I use colored pencils to mark my projects. That way I can erase if I make a mistake, but have several colors available so I can delineate one part from the other. It works really well. I do counted cross stitch, Hardanger, and I quilt. I will admit, I buy more patterns and fabric than I could ever use!

119. Roz - I love reading the tips! they have been so helpful. I ordered John James size 26 petite crewel needles for my cross stitch,. They are only 1" long and are quicker to use than the longer ones. Reason why, is you can find the hole in the back of the fabric much faster. My tip? Do your winter projects in the summer, and the summer projects in the winter. It's no fun when you don't leave yourself enough time to finish everyone's Christmas gift! I love the stash comments. I am so into knitting now, but just bought your blackwork ornaments. Small projects are always do-able! Thanks! Anne from Yuma

I have a tip for dealing with skeins of #5 perle, coton a broder, etc taught to me by some stitchers here in NZ:

Slide off label bands and keep. Unwind skein until one large circle and find the knot. Trim off and cut through all the threads at this point. Put label bands through one cut end until in the centre. With label bands at the top, take some strands from each of the 2 sides to make a 3rd strand. Now plait these. You will be able now to pull a thread free without any knots or twists!

I put these plaited skeins onto a large ring. One ring holds the colours I am using for a project and the other holds the remaining colours. Happy stitching,

(I had to write back to Marie about her term “plait”, as I was not familiar with that. Here is her response to my American question) “you now have 3 groupings of thread. Left one over middle, then right one over middle. AH!!!! Got it- I was born, and raised, and educated in the US, but after 38 years in NZ I forgot the word---braid! It's a really useful way to avoid knots and tangles. AND you learned some "Kiwi"!

121. When preparing fabric for stitching, I cover the edges of the fabric with extra-wide double fold bias tape and baste into place. This makes a nice soft edge which is particularly helpful when stitching without a frame. It also helps keep the edges clean. When finished with the piece I just remove the bias tape, wash the tape, and it use it again on the next project. This method is more expensive than using masking tape to cover the edges, but reusing the bias tape helps keep the cost down and the edges are so much nicer to work with- no sticky edges and no tape pulling away from the fabric.

Several years ago, I was facing major abdominal surgery which would require my being away from work for 4-6 weeks. I thought, perfect, optimum stitching time!

Like everyone else, I have more charts and supplies than time to work on them. During the time that led up to the surgery, I combed the State of NH (as well as Nordic Needle) to purchase some charts and all the supplies needed for the project. I made up a small card which I called my supplies list for each project and place everything into a ziplock bag - the chart, fabric, fibers, charms and beads (if pattern called for these). Most of these "project packs," as I call them are small projects like from JBW, Just Nan, and Lizzie Kate. The larger projects are stored in larger ziplock bags.

A storage suggestion - the smaller project cards can be stored in a sewing pattern box. You can make up dividers for the different categories of projects which can be the type (floral, milestone, sampler) or by Designer (Just Nan, JBW, Lizzie Kate). If you're really ambitious, you can catalog the chart names on the front of the divider.

I like project that are small enough to fit into my purse. We spend a lot of time waiting in doctors' office, dentists' offices or even at the hairdresser. Even if it's only 10 minutes, it's great stitching time.

123. Hi. I read your newsletter and scan your catalog and order wonderful items. My tip, being a person who must block and lace needlework at a needlework store, is to tell people not to use masking tape on their pieces. If they could see the mess it leaves behind when one tries to block; it does not come out, it is next to impossible to add muslin to pieces that need it without gumming up sewing machines or worse and in the long run we do not know what this will actually do to your piece over the long term. Though time consuming, using the basting strip on bars over casting edges or fray check (used lightly) is still the best way.

124. I, too, block off my fabric in squares to help me keep my place when stitching. But, I use a double strand of black invisible thread. It takes a while to stitch the entire square of fabric, but in the end, the invisible nylon thread is easier to pull out. I have been doing this for many years and it saves a lot of time when trying to keep up with my place in the stitching. Barbara, MacClenny, in Florida.

125. And here's a tip for someone working with tiny seed beads. Because they POP and disappear down into the chair, I got a fitted sheet and put it over the entire chair when I am beading. It's white, so the beads show up when I stand up and look for them. I can capture them and put them back in their containers. If I am not beading, I take the sheet off. It stays cleaner that way and the room looks better!

Tip #2...GE REVEAL bulbs are 'natural light' and they go in any lamp. I have a 3-way in the lamp where I stitch, and turn it to the brightest wattage (150W) when I'm working.

126. I'd like to submit a tip for left handers. Read the directions then turn book or page upside down to look at the picture. This shows instructions perfect for a left hand person.

127. Reading the tip from Bonnie about how she prepares the edges of fabric for cross stitch, Hardanger, etc, encouraged me to send in my own tip on how I prepare the edges of fabric for handwork. I now use my serger for preparing the edges of any handwork fabric. It is fast and easy. It doesn't make any difference what color thread is in the serger at the time since it will never show and my serger is always ready to be used. If I am doing multiple pieces, like when I was making Christmas cross stitch ornaments, I just serged the edges of all the pieces of fabric I was going to use. Then when I finished one ornament, the next piece of fabric was ready to use. Of course, this tip is only good for those who have a serger. If you have a sewing machine, you can use one of the overlock stitches to prepare the edges in the same manner.

128. I find that threading up 3 or 4 needles at a time when I'm doing large areas of a project makes things go faster.

129. Dear Roz, When I was working on a large cross stitch picture I kept my place by using an air erasable marker to highlight the area that I was currently working on. That way, my pattern is not permanently affected but I could easily focus on one area without spending a lot of time searching for it.

130. I do all kinds of handwork. I do one piece at a time. I found that after I do a piece that takes a long time to finish, that it is nice to plan the next piece that is small and "quick" to finish.

My best hint is for the eyes and to free the hands and to be able to relax sitting in my lazy chair. I use a lamp with a floor stand with wheels and has a round light with a 6" magnifier. It is great for all types of days and nights. It is a great gift idea from another or yourself. I have had mine for 15 years now and everyone who sits under it to try has ended up buying it within 2 years and love it. In fact, a couple started doing handwork again! Nordic needle has it.

131. I took a class at a seminar during which the teacher said that particularly when doing blackwork she simply returns the needle eye up from the bottom side. (this sort of duplicates what the double pointed needles do) It does take a bit of practice but it seems to work.

132. A time saving tip for completing projects is to always have the needle full of fiber. I always rethread the needle even if I am finished stitching for that time period so that if I have a few minutes to spare I can pick my project up and start stitching instead of rethreading the needle. I also, leave the needle where I left off so I can find my place easily. I find that I stitch even in the 3 minute spurts my lifestyle gives me sometimes instead of waiting until I have time to find the right color, thread the needle, find my place and get started.

Please reassure Carol and Annie that there is no right or wrong way to stitch two-handed. Some people can do it only with the dominant hand on the bottom. Others (like me) prefer the dominant hand on top. When I started using a frame to hold my stitching, it never occurred to me that there would be a right or wrong way. This is purely a matter of personal preference.

If you cross stitch two-handed, but the double point needles don't work for you, try using the eye of the needle for the "up" side of the stitch. Just like learning to use two hands, this takes some practice; and it's a bit easier on fabric than canvas. After plunging the needle into the fabric, pull it through just enough for the needle to clear the fabric. With the underneath hand, move the needle (eye at the top) to the next position and thrust upward.

134. While doing the fine wrapping of bars on my Hardanger, I was having trouble with keeping everything even and smooth. I now use a small 4 inch wooden hoop when I wrap my bars and the stitching is even, smooth and requires very little blocking of the completed piece. Carolyn W.

I tend to stitch multiple colors at once for complicated patterns. This leaves me with several lengths of floss dangling from my workpiece. In order to keep them from getting caught or knotted up in the back, I "park" them on the front of the piece after doing just half of the last stitch. It helps me find where I stopped with that color (due to the half stitch) and doesn't get as tangled.

I have only picked up the last few tips from the newsletters and don’t know whether this one has been given as yet.

Instead of using a thimble which is sometimes cumbersome, dab a spot of "super glue" on the spot on your finger where the needle goes in. It usually peals off when you bath or the next day. It really works well.

137. Hi, Roz. This isn't a stitching tip but a tip for stitchers. A lot of very well-meaning people have been offering their leftover bits of threads for the birds to use in building their nests and this has been popularly spread about as a fun way to "help" our fellow creatures. PLEASE STOP! This is absolutely not what should be done as anything outside of nature's camouflage tends to call attention to itself and, unfortunately, that includes nests with babies inside. I, too, thought this was a way I could contribute to my beloved nature after having read the same idea but it has been debunked and discouraged by leading conservation groups. The best thing we can do is allow our yards to contain some dead matter: grasses, leaves, twigs, seed pod fluff, etc. from which animal mothers may choose to decorate their homes safely.

138. For the ladies who have husbands or children who "borrow" their scissors. Get a small padlock and lock the handles of the scissors shut. Having a husband who does leather work and who thinks that all scissors are fair game, I learned this trick as a way of preserving my treasured Hardanger scissors and my German dressmaking scissors. . Marilyn S.

139. I have a variation on the "baste every 10 squares" tip. I used a sharp silver quilter's pencil, and marked lines every 10 squares right on the fabric; just drag the tip lightly down the row of threads. It leaves a light gray line on off-white aida and only takes a few minutes. I drew a line down the centers, and counted (carefully!) from there by 10's out to the upper left corner; I marked a few squares & will add more as I go along. I also marked the edge of the (first) page, going off the edge of the design; the marks will never show, since that portion will be under the mat when it's framed, and the background will be completely stitched.

Some of them I've had to re-mark where they've faded. Having the grid right there is a huge help, since it's a huge project. (Mystic Stitch rocks!) I hope to finish it in less than 150 years, so I can start the next one.

Re Hint #104: Please clarify on the issue of saving thread for birds – I think I read in a previous newsletter (a year or two ago, maybe) that this is a BAD idea because the dyes and metals in the threads are toxic to the birds or the bright colors attract predators to the nest. It sounds like a good idea on the surface but can have the opposite effect.

Re Hint #101 – I love the idea of the stitching diary. A couple of things I’ve started doing along the same lines are scanning my patterns and saving them on the computer, also taking pictures of my finished projects since most of them are given away – that way I have a nice record of what I’ve done.

141. Hi Roz - I was keen to see hints regarding signing work as I am always afraid I might make mine too large - or wrong colour etc. However I wanted to somehow leave my "sign" for when the time comes for the articles to be passed on to my children. I have compromised by using my computer and making labels. On these I type the name of the piece (and the designer). Then add my name and the year I made it. To make it more topical I try to add the reason for the piece - (e.g. Made to celebrate the 40th birthday of..... etc.). My favourite piece is the Hardanger sampler I made from one of your pieces. It featured the bible verse which was read for our wedding - Corinthians 13. I typed this information and then added.

"Made to commemorate our 50th wedding anniversary". It now hangs proudly in our bedroom where we can read it each day and remember the wonderful years we have had together. (The label is on the back but I know it is there for our children to read in years to come).

I was interested in the hint about taking needlework on airplanes. Oh how I wish! Here in Australia we are no longer allowed to carry needles, knitting needles, crochet hooks or cutting devices (scissors, etc.) Makes it very hard for keen needleworkers - so I always make sure I have a good cryptic crossword.

142. Dear Roz, Several people wrote about keeping multiple supplies with each bag of stitching. I found clear plastic zippered cosmetic bags very useful as a container for all my supplies. I have one for stitching and one for all my knitting accessories. When you set out it is so easy to pick up the little bag and know you have all you need to stitch. And you can see what is in there very easily.

143. Just a follow-up on a past newsletter. Regarding covering your pattern with plastic sheet protectors or packing tape, I suggest using clear/transparent Con Tact plastic used for shelf lining etc. and as long as you carefully start on one edge and unwind the Con Tact plastic as you place it on the pattern, it works perfectly. Water-based markers rub off easily when the piece is fully stitched. The Con Tact plastic is sold in rolls like wallpaper and is mounted on a backing that is marked off in inches as well as centimeters, making it that much more easy to cut the appropriate size. This was suggested to me by a stitching friend and I have used it for years.

I also suffer from arthritis in my wrists and hands. I spend anywhere from 2 to 10 hours a day stitching and do most of my larger projects on my floor stand. However, I still like to do small projects or projects, like the Hardanger tablecloth I am currently working on - in hand. My teacher has suggested we use a cushion on our laps to support our arms when stitching in hand. I find I can stitch longer this way.

144. Hi Roz! I really enjoy your newsletters with all the helpful hints, tips, etc. I don't know if this fits in, but I made some covers to fit over the top and bottom of my scroll frame to protect the fabric from getting stained from rubbing my arm on the roll. You know, those oil stain lines from your skin and it's practically impossible to wash it out. The covers are made out of quilted fabric, they just snap on with elastic, and come in 4 sizes.....12", 18", 22", 24". I think they are the greatest things since sliced bread and can throw them in the washing machine. Thanks again for all your wisdom. Keep it coming!!

145. I have a hint I think you will like. When I cross stitch I always wear disposable latex gloves. This prevents any body oils from rubbing off on the work, causing stains and smudges. When I put my work down, I make sure it is completely covered.

146. Hi Roz - When I start a new pattern I photocopy it, enlarging it 2 or 3 times.

Not only does this save my pattern for future use, but it makes it easier on my eyes. I place the pattern on a magnetic board and then on a stand. I highlight the stitches I have finished as I go along. Also, I have a magnetic ruler to help stay on the line I'm suppose to be using. This works great for me. It is OK to copy for personal use only.

I tear up the photocopy and put it in the trash when finished with that pattern.

147. Please warn stitchers about using highlighters to mark cross stitch charts. I always used to use them until one time when I used an orange marker on a beautiful cross stitch on linen. The work looked beautiful until I dampened it to iron. There they were - orange spots on the linen. Some of the marker had dried and the tiny dried pieces evidently landed on the linen. I got the spots out by carefully using very diluted bleach. Now I simply reproduce the chart and mark what I've done with a pencil. And I keep the pencil away from the linen, just in case.

148. I learned on my own how to cross stitch. It seemed normal to move from right to left, the way I sewed a hem or did embroidery. I scoop stitch, since I am not competing for awards, etc. I find the center of my design, find the center of the linen, then move toward the lower right corner, counting how many threads I need to go to have the design centered.

Then I begin, going the required number of stitches up, then crossing them on the way down. Then to the next stitch or stitches to the left and so on. When necessary, I turn the work upside down and the stitches still are crossed in the same direction as those already done. Of course, individual single stitches and outline stitches are done the same as Blackwork, so nothing shows through the linen.

When I later saw that cross stitch was started in the upper left corner, with the wrist turned awkwardly, I just decided to keep doing it the way I was which is a more normal position for my wrist. I've been stitching since 1963 and have never had wrist trouble.

149. A tip in the most recent newsletter said that the writer stitches from the top down; that way she always stitches into new empty holes. I stitch from the bottom up for the same reason. Where one starts isn't what counts but how one forms the stitches in relation to the direction one stitches.

Stitching from the bottom up has the disadvantage of the finished stitches becoming damaged by rubbing against one's body. I solve this problem by covering the finished work with waste fabric. The fabric is rolled into the stretcher bar along with the linen and extends a short way up over the worked area. The fabric is also pinned in the boarder area beyond any linen visible on the finished piece.

150. Hi Roz - Here is my tip on securing the edges of fabric prior to stitching:

I have a surger and use it to finish the edges of linen and other even weave fabrics.

It is quick. I leave long tails, and using a large tapestry needle to weave the tails under the surged edge.

I usually do the fabric for several pieces at a time and weave the thread tails in while watching television.

I don't suggest anyone go out and buy one just for this purpose, but if you have one, use it.

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